Morocco with kids! We hired a driver/guide, and wow did we experience Fez. Ornate detail everywhere, food bursting with flavor, and outgoing locals. Here's our Fez itinerary plus some tips on navigating Fez with kids!
The background is that we had initially planned to stay in Morocco for a week, but we were reading a lot of official literature on extremely strict Covid restrictions (arrests for kids without masks on outside...), so we ended up changing our booking to only 3 days. It turned out that the reality on the ground was very different though, so our main regret was not staying longer. We felt really safe and comfortable... so we will be back!
And related quick note first on what we wore (as we did some research and received all kinds of info). Since it's a Muslim country, the ideal outfits are loose-fitting and cover the arms, legs, and chest. We realize there is some flexibility here (especially for tourists and for kids!), but it was March (with mild weather), so it was easy to be respectful, and we packed accordingly for the whole family. For the girls we did blousy long shirts/dresses that covered the knees, paired with leggings. Boys were easy with button ups and jeans. My nanny and I also packed scarves to cover our heads, but we weren't anywhere that it felt 'required', so we actually never wore them. (Note this is different than say, Jordan, where I was asked to wear mine even to enter a roadside restaurant.) And it did rain, so we're glad we were prepared with (matching - and photogenic, right?) clear rain jackets (toddlers, kids and adults), clear umbrellas, and some easy-to-pack rain boots.
Now - here is (in summary and detail below) what we were able to do during our one full day in Fez:
We were picked up from our hotel early, and our driver took us straight to the Dar el Makhzen (aka the Royal Palace). You've probably seen the huge golden doors in pictures. And since the palace itself isn't open to the public (and it was raining), that is basically all we did here - a quick stop to admire and take pictures.
Our next stop was Borj Nord - an ancient fortress on a hilltop overlooking the medina. There is an arms museum inside here as well, but it was unclear if it was open - so we were happy to just be here (well, most of us) for the truly sweeping views of the city.
And would any driver tour be complete without a stop for pottery? It would not. This shop (Mosaique et Poterie de Fes) had three levels to showcase the whole process - and there is just a certain magic about that. The ground floor was where the actual pottery making was happening - we watched men at the wheel with wet clay (kids were mesmerized), chiseling shapes (and even gave each kid a mini heart tile), and painting the final dishes (and gave our two oldest delicate tattoos with the same paint). While we were watching the whole process, they even made us Arabic coffee (strong, unfiltered hot coffee) that was served on a beautiful tray with sugar cubes. Plus they had warm mint (like actual leaves) tea for the kids (with plenty of sugar). Then the top two floors were full (wall-to-ceiling full) of ceramics. Tiled tables, dishes, vases - they had it all. In terms of shopping, the guys there were not at all pushy - the ceramics just spoke for themselves. Our only regret is spending too long here... as they offered to ship, so there we were - filling a whole crate! We definitely spent too much money! Otherwise - highly recommend a stop! (And recommend the shipping option too - not one single piece was broken when it arrived the next month!)
And finally... the medina (Fes el Bali)!! This was definitely the highlight of the itinerary!! It's considered to be one of the most extensive and best conserved historic (think 800 AD) towns of the Arab-Muslim world according to UNESCO, and there is truly nothing like it. It's all pedestrian-only, and there are literally thousands of alleyways to explore.
Entering at Bab Boujeloud, it's a maze of these narrow cobbled alleys - lined with souks, small shops, restaurants, mosques, and private homes. Our kids LOVED to just take in all the sights (an old wheelbarrow stacked with hundreds of eggs, making deliveries around the medina), smells (the SPICES are everywhere), and sounds (calls to prayer, loud welding, and just the general chaos of the daily life in close quarters). The alleyways are amazing just by themselves too. Some of the paths are so narrow that you can touch both walls at the same time with your elbows. Some of the walls are rough, cobbled stone, while others are painted with beautiful murals or showcase exquisite metalwork and woodwork. Some little alleys are covered, while others have views straight up to a patch of sky. And some of the narrowest alleys suddenly open up into mini courtyards - the place is really just full of surprises.
So what can you do in the medina? In summary - wander, photograph, eat, and shop. Here were some of our favorite stops inside the medina:
Al-Attarine Madrasa: This is an old, traditional Koran school with - hands down - the most beautiful courtyard. The detail here is unreal. Family photo here is a MUST. You can also tour the upstairs rooms where the honors students reside (although see my notes below about nooks and crannies!).
Mosques: There are hundreds of mosques inside the medina. Non-Muslims aren't allowed inside, but if you can get a peak from outside the gate, these ornate buildings and spaces of prayer are quite breathtaking!
Restaurant Asmae: A traditional Moroccan restaurant (see below for the notes on eating!) right in the medina - in a truly beautiful space and with delicious food and drink. Very highly recommend for the ambiance, the quality of the food, and the friendliness of the staff (especially to the kids).
Donkey Ride: Yup. We let the kids ride a donkey. We definitely felt like tourists, but I like to think it's different (and acceptable?) to have two cute kids (at a total of 70lbs) ride a donkey than say... ME (at an unspecified weight) ride a donkey. Anyway, all we did was let the guy guide them up and down one of the little alleys, and they still loved it.
School: At some point (while I was distracted with a vendor), our guide brought the kids and our nanny into a small primary school, and they got to sing a few songs with the local kids. It was so random, but such a neat experience for the kids!
Shopping: We were almost all shopped out from the pottery place... almost. We rallied. :) We didn't go too crazy, but we did at least look at all the Moroccan basics:
Rugs: Tucked into these narrow streets are rug shops that amazingly open up into large 2 or 3 story indoor vestibules to showcase large hanging rugs. The detail is so intricate and the rugs come in so many deep colors that it feels enchanting. Add to that that the workers encouraged the kids to all hop on a giant rug together for a 'magic carpet ride' (read: swinging!) ... and everyone was happy (well except maybe the owner since we just did not have budget to splurge on one of these - although it was tempting!).
Silks: Morocco has a special type of silk that is from an agave plant (instead of worms). At some of the shops, you can see them actually weaving it on a hand loom. And the scarves come in bright colors and have a unique shimmer (from that special agave silk). Molly got a multicolored one that she uses for a variety of purposes (stuffed animal swaddle, blanket, fort decor), and they taught Andrew how to wrap his as a headscarf!
Metal: Think ornate genie lamps - and then go from there! There were several shops showcasing the art of manipulating metal - and full of treasures. At one, we found the most beautiful large globe. It was made by the owner's father, and we didn't see anything just like it at the other shops... so we splurged. On this large globe, each country has been identified with an etching with the country name (some names familiar, others not so much), and each country is also filled in with a different hammered pattern (yup... each country!). It even has a light inside! It has a special place in our dining room now! Note also that when it arrived at our house a few weeks later, they had included four little extra lamps for the kids. They were gorgeous, but after one near-fire, we did have everything re-wired by an electrician in the states so they also felt safe!
Linens: Women were lining the walls in a tiny shop sewing these tiny little patterns onto white linens - with a definitely European feel (which makes sense with such a heavy French influence here).
Oils: OK, you've heard of Moroccan Argan oil, and we went to a traditional Berber Pharmacy to see the real thing! The owner showed us the process of extraction, and he also proudly showed us many other medicinal products. We gave into a few things - like the tiniest bottle of "100%" Argan oil, some frankincense, a recommended 'magic' Chinese-made lipstick, and wonderfully scented blocks for our drawers. Just the essentials. lol. :)
Leather: You've seen the pictures. The tanneries, although smelly, are a true wonder. Wind your way up five (six? seven? who knows at a certain point) narrow staircases, and gaze out onto the entire end-to-end process. Then inside, shop for every leather product imaginable (shoes, wallets, bags, jackets) in every possible shade. The camel leather is especially popular and soft! I probably don't have to spell this out, but I wouldn't recommend this stop for vegetarians/vegans/animal activists.
If it's not clear by now, we loved our day in the medina. On this particular day, it was cloudy and drizzling. It didn't even matter. It was magical for the whole fam!
And now, some other random tips for navigating the medina with kids:
Babywear or plan to slow down to let your toddlers walk in the medina. we're pretty aggressive about where we bring our stroller (as a way to contain kids, carry all our shopping bags, you name it). But we were very, very glad we skipped it here. It wouldn't have been a comfortable ride (cobbled streets) or easy for the one pushing, and frankly it would have just felt 'in the way' of all the locals bustling around.
Watch your kids! With all the nooks and crannies, it's super easy to get lost. Plus if you're anywhere above the first level, there are not only very narrow spiral staircases that are tricky for kids to navigate, but there are also low ledges and open windows (and frankly just random large openings with multi-story drops)... so not the best place for exploring alone. (As someone with a fear of heights, this kind of double freaks me out.) This isn't different than most really old cities though!
Have a guide. So this is a general tip, but it's important with kids because 'wandering' can only last so long sometimes. And with a guide, yeah you'll have to stop at all their friends' shops, but you'll be sure to see all the best places in a reasonable amount of time too. And not only will you be able to learn the history of the place as you tour, but as you get to chatting, you'll learn about the life of your guide and his family and friends - giving you a unique glimpse into life there. Note that if you're reading this and without kids, I'd just make sure you have have extra time (to get lost) and are armed with a Lonely Planet book - if you're going at it alone! It's just not the reality for us in this stage of life, and that's OK! :)
And last notes that apply to many of the places we've traveled: use the bathroom when you're at the restaurants (as you just never know when you'll find another!), know that you'll be often changing diapers directly on the ground, know that drivers may not have car seats (even if you ordered one), bring your own snacks if you have severe allergies or special requirements (like baby formula), etc. etc. Maybe I'll do a full post on this one day. But any international travel requires a little flexibility, and we didn't find Fez any different than that!
And finally, after a long day of exploring, we went back to our hotel for dinner! We follow our points, so we stayed at the Fes Marriott Jnan Palace. Again since it was cool and rainy during our (March) stay, the pool looked awesome, but we just enjoyed the rooms and restaurants. Great location, food, and concierge service - would definitely recommend!
OK saving the most important thing for last.
THE FOOD.
Here are some notes on eating in Morocco (spoiler alert - the kids LOVED every meal):
We enjoyed (on three different occasions) the typical full Moroccan meal - starting with a large variety (about a dozen dishes) of hot and cold 'salads' (think dips and veggies, and other appetizer-type foods), followed by a tangine, and a big pile of couscous with meat and vegetables. For dessert, they had various pastries, but the focus was usually fresh fruit cut into beautiful patterns. [Side note: Our nanny is vegetarian (for health reasons) and although there were so many veggie options, it was tricky sometimes to confirm that what we were eating was or was not vegetarian. I imagine if you have allergies (as in any country where you don't speak the language), you may also face a similar challenge. Not in every restaurant, but some of the best ones buried deep in the city!]
And another food note that if you're on the road (like us traveling between Marrakech and Fez) or at the airport, we found Paul (a little bakery chain) to be a great stop for coffee and French pastries.
In summary, the food was a top highlight! Every one of the kids liked different dishes and was in absolute heaven. Many of these foods felt familiar, but I have to say that we've never had a tangine so well-seasoned or couscous so fluffy as in Morocco. We've tried to recreate it back in the states by looking for awesome tangine recipes (you know, so we could use that tangine dish we thought we needed from that ceramics shop) - but it's hard to match the food there. This is best tangine recipe we've found so far though!
And lastly, as always. noting a few things we missed (in case you have more time):
visit the gardens, head outside the city and play with the monkeys!
Alright well... in summary SHUKRAN (thank you!) to Morocco for having us! We'll be over here just reliving our visit surrounded by all our Moroccan treasures, but we suggest you book your trip to Fez now to experience it for yourself! :)
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